Magical Termite Mounds, Baobabs and more..

I realise this blog has been rather quiet lately. Last week I was being incredibly (and unusually) disciplined. Thus, sadly, had to prioritise other tasks. But here I am, continuing the tale of the weekend before. Images actually seem more expressive that words in this case, and I hasten to add that all but one of these were taken by Tiennie, not me!

The amazing Planet Baobab orbits peacefully on the edge of Botswana's Makgadikgadi Salt Pans, and marking the turnoff is this superb Anteater - all the better to tackle those giant ants inside the anthills mentioned in last week's post!

Seriously, I should really have named them properly as Termite Mounds, which are fascinating mini-civilisations in their own right. I was also asked about the topic of anthills a few months back, after posting a picture of me sitting on a very differently shaped one, during our most fabulous New Year Break (see older post here).

I have now come across a great website about termite mounds and how we humans could learn from their technology and engineering. It really does make for fascinating reading - have a look here: www.sandkings.co.uk.

Here, the old Planet Baobab (Kalahari Surf Club!) signpost soars atop a tall anthill/termite mound, reminiscent of the planet inhabited by Le Petit Prince.

Here's the new look, new image signpost, which also helpfully includes GPS co-ordinates! It's close to the village of Gweta, for any Google Earth fans.

*Some more useful/useless info here: Gweta is where the Mma Ramotswe Ladies No 1 Detective Agency movie was shot.

We stayed in a traditional Bakalanga Hut, set amongst Terminalia Prunoides trees (purple pod terminalia). You can possibly make out the rich purply-maroon pods on the left.
Or, we could have also stayed in these huts...
This immense, ancient, mysterious, stunning baobab just blew my mind. Apologies for the profusion of adjectives, but it can't be helped! Regular readers of this blog will know that in this photo where I appear merely for a bit of scale - I am, of course, preparing to hug the tree!

A secluded sandy clearing on the left is home to a couple of double-sized hammocks which swing invitingly under the lower branches. I would probably never have left that spot, if we hadn't already paid for some perfectly marvellous accommodation just next door!

Truly an otherworldly experience, to live among the baobabs...
The beautiful fountain and bubbly water at the far end of the pool, under a cool thatched roof...

Same scene, taken from the opposite end of the pool, with gorgeous baobab in the background. The shadowy presence is me on the other side of the fountain, blocking out the sun and enjoying the spray.

In the late evening we ordered sundowners, and retired to this offbeat concrete lounge, complete with elegant painted carpet. Here Tiennie humours me by posing on his comfy concrete sofa!
As the sun dropped and twilight colours softly glowed, we watched from our special sofa as the pool fountain died down, and the night lights winked on. The crescent moon showed its dainty sliver in the sky, and also in the undisturbed surface of the pool below.
Eventually darkness and dinner lured us away from the beautiful concrete lounge suite, until we ended up enjoying a few too many night caps at the bar counter, for just as long as we could stay awake...with its quirky ambience and soulful African music, we found ourselves quite unable to leave!

Here is a photo of the bar counter. The framed art behind the bar features a reflection of the awesome chandelier - made of old green beer bottles.
Well, all journeys must continue, and later next day it was time to head back north to the floods and the elephants, but at the same time feeling rested and calm, having found serenity in this magical place. I have to confess that I am already counting the days till I can somehow get back there...

To the Desert, and back

Back home, after a four day/two thousand kilometre journey - a long road trip out west across the country to wind up at yet another flooded river, followed by a sojourn in the world of pale grasslands, salt pans, baobabs and towering white anthills. A beautiful antidote to our watery shores.

Anthill / Signpost - Planet Baobab

So, it's just a few photos for now, as all the rememberings and impressions swirling around in my mind can't be sorted into any sort of order just yet...

Baobab at sunset with fruit

Baobab & swimming pool reflection

It was definitely a magical, renewing and refreshing journey. As ever, I felt the emptiness and the trees and the wild places working their healing magic...

Sherlock inspects an anthill for clues about the meaning of life?!

Tree Hugging in the Middle of Nowhere

Bush Camp Baobab

Last weekend, although we were supposed to have been confined to base, we actually went out to our friends' bush camp (known in this blog as The Middle of Nowhere - mentioned here and here). 

It was kind of a hard week and escaping from (relative) civillisation was just what the doctor ordered - so we set off after work on Saturday on the transit road through the National Park, stopping only for a herd of very shiny, well-fed looking buffalo to cross over.  

Hot, blue and sunny weather was a welcome break from the recent gloomy raininess, and naturally called for a quick stop in Mabele village to purchase ice cold Hansa beers at the lovely Kanini Kanini General Dealer &  High Life Bar. The general weirdness of this transaction brought back memories of a Botswana we used to know about 20 years back!

We found that great progress had been made out at the camp, and enjoyed staying in one of the newly established future guest tents. Very romantic design, set upon teak decking, in amongst the natural indigenous trees.  A piece of heaven...

Tent hiding amongst the trees

We enjoyed an evening round the fire, gazing up at the Milky Way and the dazzling Stars, liberated from the cloudiness by the clear weather... 

Waking up the next morning to the birdsong surrounding the tent, I opened my sleepy eyes - straight into sensory overload! An astounding, wild, red sunrise was busy going on, as viewed through the huge, uncurtained mesh windows! Alas, being half asleep at the time, the colours had rapidly faded into tameness by the time I could get to a camera to capture it...

As ever, I just revelled in being in the bush. And indulged my delight in hugging, and if possible curling up in, great big, warm, earthy baobab trees!

On the way back, we stopped numerous times - to just enjoy the pure silence, the sheer seasonal abundance of the trees and undergrowth, and also to pick some Sausage Tree fruit for medicinal purposes...

Sausage Tree, (Kigelia Africana) with fruit

Looking up through the stunning vegetation

Oh, and what would a trip through the lush vegetation be without frantic reversing and climbing inside a thorny acacia tree, to capture a rambling, creeping, Flame Lily in full flower. This is a slightly different colour scheme to the others featured in earlier blog posts - but still a delight to behold in the wild!

Satellite Magic in the Middle of Nowhere

Back at the bush camp in the absolute middle of nowhere – our mission, to install a Vsat internet system. So…a friendly chat via satellite BGan & Skype with the techie lads in Cape Town at the other end of the continent, swing the big satellite dish around, wave around a high tech instrument that aligns perfectly to the improbable and mysterious satellite orbiting kilometres above us in outer space – fiddle with a few settings and voila, permanent internet floating all around us and the bush camp is Online! This always feels like a small piece of magic to me…

Being the go-between - chatting to Cape Town

Having sorted out the communications - solar power and inverters quietly keeping everything going, it was a delight to take some time out and enjoy spending time with our friends in their unspoilt corner of the world, complete with a mini “baobab island”.

I enjoyed some alone time for reading and contemplation. For me, there’s something magically soothing and restoring about the African bush. The silence, broken only by insect and bird sounds; the blanketing humidity and greenery of this time of year; the sudden flares of sunshine/blue sky, competing with the brooding build-up of dark grey afternoon storm clouds.

Later in the afternoon, we escorted the tribe of dogs to a nearby water-filled pan where they splashed, wallowed, galloped and leaped to their hearts’ content! The arrival of the rain could not ruin their sheer joy in their watery adventure. Back at camp, nothing better than standing wetly next to the fire, feeling your clothes drying on you within seconds, whilst enjoying an ice cold bush sundowner!

Our sunset was absurdly colourful and changeable… from salmon and pale blue, to crimson, then purple and gold - finally fading to royal blue. Perhaps Tiennie’s photo can do it justice…

Eventually it was time to meander back home through the grasslands and palm treeseventually emerging on the fringes of the floodplain once more, ready to follow the river home to Kasane. There we found and photographed a profusion of wild red pincushiony lilies.

and of course had to stop in to buy some cokes at the wonderful “Kanini Kanini General Dealer and High Life Bar”before heading back to our comparatively civillised real world, for another working week!

Middle of Nowhere

Alas, I seem to have run out of writing time, dealing with month-end at work, while enjoying a most welcome and enjoyable visit from my dad, and also preparing to go away for a week... so I decided to just post a couple of photos from last weekend.

Just looking at this bush track and its surroundings makes me long to evacuate my desk in this crazy/busy town centre, and just hit the road...
NB If anybody feels like looking on Google Earth: this is vaguely in the area of Satau, Botswana, in the Chobe Enclave. It is a beautiful unspoilt area and we went there during the weekend to visit our friends Phil and Gabi at their bush camp. Out there the lifestyle is so simple, and reminded us of how we too once lived in a small caravan, and happily made do with very little...

These Baobabs are probably a well known and much photographed sight for any Botswana off- road traveller, being at the entrance to Kavimba village. I just love them...