Sunsets in the Flood

Last night we drove up to a spot on top of a hill, and looked out over the floodplain. As hinted at in my previous post, here are a couple of examples of the sun setting over a reflective, inundated landscape...

I have to just mention right here that we should also spare a thought for those villagers who have had to evacuate their settlements along the Caprivi strip both on the Botswana and Namibian sides of the border, and a couple of people right here whose homes are close to the river, and who have had to take refuge higher up. Some lodges are either already affected, or could be soon...

Let's just hope that the waters start to recede sooner rather than later. I am always in awe of Nature in all her power and beauty, and counted a good few blessings once more, to be lucky enough to be sitting safely on top of a hill just looking on at the sheer masses of water.

This elevated vantage point is almost in the middle of the town, but the road to the top is wild, and criss-crossed with elephant tracks. The scents of elephant dung and crushed wild basil linger in the evening air, and, despite the feeling of remoteness, the streetlights of Kasane are visible down below, and road traffic can be heard passing by. Yet another example of the curious juxtaposition of wilderness and civilisation in this place we call home!

As the sun disappeared, I felt the first sign of an Autumnal chill in the air, despite the still-warm sand under my feet. It seems that our rainy season might have have finally come to an end, and that the seasons are changing at last...

Floodplain views - the rising river

Every day, en route to work, we choose to take the scenic road down the hill and enjoy the view out over the beautiful Chobe river floodplain.

View from the top of the hill, just before descending to river level. Neighbouring country Namibia is on the other side.

I find that a good start and mood for the day is highly encouraged by simply appreciating this beautiful view (and baobab) while driving down to our destination at river bank level.

Right now it's time for our annual floods to arrive, and it seems that exceptionally high levels are expected this year. Huge amounts of water are coming down from Angola, and other catchment areas, as we are part of the great Zambezi river system.

The Chobe river suddenly transforms from a meandering blue ribbon, obediently following its channel through the green floodplain, into massive sheets of water which spread out and cover the flat basin with a shimmering, reflective surface. As one can imagine, this watery sheet has the ability to take on any number of colours and moods, according to the state of the sky above it, and this makes for some incredible sunsets. More on that in future posts, I'm sure!

Last Sunday we took a few photos of the advancing floodwaters entering the floodplain.

Above is last Sunday's photo of the floodplain. Below is today's photo (Saturday) from the same spot.This water seems to have appeared almost overnight, and it is still rising!

On Sunday afternoon, we also took a walk along the river's edge at Chobe Safari Lodge. While marvelling at the high water level, we heard a loud water spraying sound emerging from some partially submerged trees right nearby.

Soon afterwards, a long, dark, submarine-shaped body emerged vertically from the water - followed rapidly not by a periscope, but by a pair of flapping hippo ears! Two hippos were in the area, so we stayed around to take some photos of them - one of which graced my previous blog post.

Hippos are fascinating creatures to watch in the water. One minute a hippo is there, and the next, it's gone. While they are underwater, you are never entirely sure where they are going to surface next, and this can be slightly alarming!

I have the greatest respect for these animals, as they can be extremely dangerous, and I've heard it said that hippos account for more deaths in the African river enviroment than crocodiles. Even though they are vegetarians, their sheer size and power, coupled with the most enormous teeth means that they can cause a lot of damage. Apparently the big hippo "yawn", is actually a sign of aggression! Even though we are surrounded by wildlife here, we never lose sight of the fact that they are completely wild creatures in their natural environment...

Hippo in the very wide, flooded river near submerged trees

Watch this space for more flood images in the not too distant future, and in the meantime, happy weekend greetings from my grey, cloudy, watery world...

Hippo Ivory

I'm afraid I just don't have time to actually write much at the moment, as I'm drowning under a pile of paperwork, once again...

Instead of words, here's an interesting photo taken last Sunday, featuring some ferocious looking teeth in the mouth of a Chobe hippopotamus. NB picture by Tiennie - I can't take any credit for this one!

All in a day's work...

During the week we had to visit Elephant Sands near Nata, to fiddle with one of our satellite internet sites there. Apart from having to go there for work, it's also a top favourite place to visit - natural, unspoilt, good company, and plenty of elephants!

Here's a photographic update on the waterhole, last seen in October, at the height of the dry season (in this previous blog entry). 

This time, I had to wade through a clutching jungle of knee-high plant growth, in order to locate my log for the traditional photo!  As you can see, there is quite a contrast in the level of the waterhole these days - almost at the end of the rainy season.

Although there is still the odd thunderstorm around, there is most definitely an autumnal feel in the air, and leaves are beginning to fall... Here's one of the rain storms we missed, while on the road.

Earlier, while driving in to the lodge,  I'd been anxiously eyeing our progress through impossible drifts of white sand, when, unexpectedly, a TUSK appeared in my peripheral vision! It felt as if it was about to spike me through the open window, but in all reality, I'm sure it wasn't that bad! The poor elephant seemed just as horrified at this close encounter,  and as I let out a yell of surprise,  he was already doing a frantic U-turn, and we just saw his flapping ears, tail and a cloud of dust as he scuttled back into the bush, no doubt deciding to attempt his track crossing much later!

I love the way "Africa-time" unfolds at Elephant Sands... it's just that kind of place.  Nothing is hurried, and an afternoon on the patio overlooking the waterhole progresses lazily, matching the slow, measured pace of the elephantine arrivals and departures in front of us.

After a bush-cuisine dinner laid on by fabulous chef Lazarus, the done thing is to sit around the open fire, where amazing stories are exchanged, and the Southern Cross shines down from a silvery/white milky way.  I found a place to curl up on a cement pillar, and communed with the skies, while sipping Kahlua-laced coffee, and listening to the conversations floating around me...

Next morning we went to do a quick site survey for our next satellite dish installation, at an exploration camp close to the lodge. It's going to be right here, at their future office: another communications miracle in the middle of nowhere!

These odd looking constructions dotted around in the middle of the bush, are apparently going to become signposts. The upright stones have been placed there to stop the elephants from getting up close enough to push the signs over. I'm not so sure how well this is going to work, but I will keep you notified in due course!

As we left, we followed the giant footsteps of a fellow road-user, before reaching  the tar road and setting off back to civilisation...

Elephant footprints at Elephant Sands

Lego with Love...

Yesterday I went to visit the Kamadine Daycare centre, taking along 2 big boxes of wonderful Lego, kindly donated and posted from the UK by blogger FireByrd.

I've written about these children before, in earlier posts and blogger Kristin from Washington DC, has been to visit, too.

Here's Kristin's write up, where she has put in lots of facts about the place!

When I walked in with the boxes, teacher Emeldah was stunned, as she said that she has been wondering where/how she was going to ever get some more much needed Lego pieces for the kids! So thanks FireByrd, your thoughtful gift was gratefully received, and I believe that a thank you card is being made for you... :-)

Over the Border and (not so) far away

The closest, easiest way to enter Namibia from here is to check out of Botswana at Kasane's riverside immigration post, then simply cross the Chobe River to Impalila Island on the other side. Next is a short hike up a rocky path to the Police/immigration office on the island, to receive one oversized passport stamp, then back down again to your boat.

Last weekend we were heading over to Namibia in this way, as we'd been invited to spend some time with our friends at Ichingo River Lodge.  This is one of my favourite places ever, hidden away in a secluded part of the island's shoreline...

Passport formalities dispensed with, it was time to re-join our driver in the boat - finally free to disappear down the hidden channel edged with reeds, and low-hanging riverine trees. 

This picture shows the hidden channel - the dark area which looks like the opening of a cave...

Here the river current starts to accelerate, quickening its pace to eventually meet up with the faster water rushing along in the channel next door. It's a magical world of racing rapids, dark green vegetation, white sands and glinting water.  Birds and monkeys inhabit the treetops...It could be a million miles away from home, despite the fact that bits of Kasane are still visible way over the river! 

Me sitting on the deck, looking out over the river

Our afternoon was spent out on the water...two men fly-fishing for tigerfish, me keeping out of their way, and trying not to talk too much! Just give me a corner in a boat, some sunblock, a couple of cold ciders, a book and a camera, then I'm happy (and fairly quiet)!

Zipping down the rapids in the jet boat was a new experience for me! Not exactly white water rafting, but this turbulent stretch is such a contrast to the tranquility of the rest of the Chobe river... 

I hardly had time to register where we'd ended up, before a "rock" suddenly transformed itself into a none too welcoming, fast approaching hippo! Moving further down to avoid the hippo traffic, we drifted around in the pools below the rapids, floating amidst swirling circular eddies, spiralled with slowly spinning patterns of foam...  

Later we shot back up the rapids, to spend the last few hours of daylight in the more tranquil reaches of the river. Up high, the almost full moon turned from pure white to silver...

while on the other side, the  sun dipped below the horizon in its usual extravagant way!  

Fly fishing Sunset!

Of course, no better way to end the evening than solving the problems of the world over a few after-dinner glasses of port with our friend, Ralph!

Early next morning , while sunrise glowed over the treetops, Trumpeter Hornbills breakfasted in the fig tree overhead - flinging down fruits and pips, and bouncing heavily onto the tent roof! I lazily decided not to join in the early fishing trip, and simply enjoyed some "verandah time" perched above the river, alone with the rustling leaves and the sound of the rapids...

View from the verandah - boat visible down below

How else to fill in some Sunday hours? late morning brunch, lying around on the warm white sand, reading and falling asleep in a squashy sofa on a deck overlooking the river, enjoying some  good company around the bar counter...until all good things come to an end! Eventually it was time to swop countries again, accumluate a few more passport stamps and trail bits of fine white sand back into our everyday life...

Watery Escape

To end my week, and to hopefully make the weekend happen a bit faster, here's a photo instead of a story!  The image of the wake streaming out behind the boat makes me feel very restless - can't wait to escape from the confines of civilisation, and disappear into the great watery world on our doorstep...

This weekend we're border hopping again -  this time over the river into Namibia...

More next week...